Home Inspection Services

First off you got to know what your looking for.

Lets start in the attic:

Truss trouble: Any tampering with an engineered roof truss compromises its strength and can create a dangerous condition. If you notice that truss elements have been cut by a previous homeowner to make more headroom, call in a structural engineer this is serious.

Wood Rafters: Probe rafters and bottom of roof deck with a screwdriver. Soft spots may indicate water damage or dry rot, especially if you see stains.

Leaky roof: During a downpour, climb into the attic to look for leaking around chimneys, plumbing stacks, vents and skylights. Scan the underside of the sheathing for water stains.

Too much insulation: Battens that cover recessed lighting fixtures are a fire hazard, unless the fixture is "IC" rated. And blocking soffit vents can drive up energy and repair costs.

Clogged gutters: With gutters and downspouts in good shape, it's rare to get water backing into crawl spaces and basements.

Pushy plants: Branches can form a bridge to the attic for squirrels, rats and other critters. Overgrown shrubbery near the house encourages mildew to grow on siding.

Gaps around doors: Uneven spaces around doors and windows can indicate shifting of the foundation.

Cracked caulk: The sealant around doors and windows is vital in keeping water out. Replace as needed but don't be cheep you get what you pay for here.

Peeling paint: Deteriorated paint not only looks bad, it also exposes wooden siding to weather damage.

Bad grades: Soil needs to slope away from the house at a grade of 3 inches for every 5 feet to avoid water infiltration. Extensions to downspouts to carry water 10 to 15 feet from the house is always best.

Living spaces

Shaky toilet: A toilet that wobbles can break the wax ring at its base, leading to major water damage. With every flush, water will escape and gradually rot the subfloor. One morning.

Overworked wiring: Normaly found in kitchen and bathrooms. Older homes are notoriously under equipped for the power demands of hair dryers, microwaves and large refrigerators. This leads to flickering lights, tripped circuits or even dangerous overheating. Non grounded three prong outlet swaps is another safety issue. At a minimum, a bathroom should have a dedicated 15-amp circuit and a properly wired GFCI outlet. A kitchen should be wired with a minimum of two 20-amp circuits and GFCI protected outlets at the sink area.

Moisture buildup: Mildew and peeling wallpaper indicate poor bathroom ventilation. Make sure the exhaust duct leads outside. Also, the CFM rating listed on the fan should at least equal the square footage of the bathroom. "The best bet is a fan with a 30- to 60-minute timer to draw moisture out when you leave.

Stuck doors and windows: Jamming can point to paint over issues, or whole-house shifting. I look for cracks above doors and windows, indicating the possibility of structural problems.

Water stains: Don't mask brown stains on ceilings or walls with primer until you find the cause. The likeliest source? A leaking pipe or shower pan. However, a persistent yellow-brown stain and off odor might mean that squirrels or rats are living in the attic above.

Faulty grout: Shower leaks can lead to rot in studs and wallboard. Run the butt of a metal flashlight across the bottom few tile courses and listens: "Click, click, click, thud. The deeper sound tells me a tile is loose or the backer is wet. he says.

Loose railings: "Give stairwell railings a good tug. You don't want your mom or a child grabbing it and it falls off the wall. Check the spacing of the ballasters, it should not exceed 4" if so call it out.

Crawl Spaces

Rotted wood: Probe joist ends and sill plates with a screwdriver or an ice pick. Soft spots may indicate wet or dry rot, especially if the floor above sags.

Holey joists: Poorly placed drill holes or notches for wire, pipe or duct can sap a floor joist's strength. What's safe varies by manufacturer, but here are some rules of thumb: No holes or notches in the top or bottom flanges of an I-joist. Even big holes could be OK in the center, but not the ends, of the framing. Drilled holes must be at least 2 inches from top or bottom and no greater than one-third the depth of an I-joist. Notches in a conventional lumber joist should not exceed one-sixth of its depth or penetrate the center third of the joist span.

Termite tubes: Pencil-thick tubes snaking along joists may mean trouble. Break the tubes. If termites spill out or the tube is repaired in a few days, call an exterminator.

Heater noise: "If you hear your water heater gurgle, pop or snap, it's time to drain out sediment. Flushing 3 to 4 gallons prolongs the life of the heater.

Wire splices: Spliced wiring outside electric boxes is a sure sign that an unskilled electrician has been at work and a good reason to check out the rest of the home's wiring. "If I find sloppy work in such a visible place then what does that say about wiring hidden in the walls?"

Foundation cracks: Hairline cracks in a block or poured-concrete foundation are nothing to panic about. But watch for cracks that are both horizontal and vertical, or ones that are growing. Keep track of how wide they are; if they get bigger, call in a pro.

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To test a smoke detector:

1. Press the battery-test button on the unit to make sure the battery is properly connected.
2. If the unit has a battery that's more than a year old, replace the battery (see below).
3. Light a candle and hold it approximately 6 inches below the detector so that heated air will rise into the unit.
4. If the alarm doesn't sound within 20 seconds, blow out the candle and let the smoke rise into the unit.
5. If the alarm still doesn't sound, open the unit up and make sure it is clean and that all electrical connections are solid.
6. If, again, the alarm doesn't sound, replace the smoke detector.

To replace a smoke detector battery:

1. Remove the smoke detector cover, typically by carefully pulling down on the case's perimeter or by twisting the case counterclockwise.
2. Locate and remove the battery. Use a multimeter to test battery voltage. As needed, replace it with a new one.
3. Close the case and test the smoke detector (see above).
4. Read the owner's manual for additional troubleshooting tips and possible adjustments.

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Lead is a highly toxic metal that may cause a range of health problems, especially in young children. When lead is absorbed into the body, it can cause damage to the brain and other vital organs, like the kidneys, nerves and blood.

Lead may also cause behavioral problems, learning disabilities, seizures and in extreme cases, death. Some symptoms of lead poisoning may include headaches, stomachaches, nausea, tiredness and irritability. Children who are lead poisoned may show no symptoms.

Both inside and outside the home, deteriorated lead-paint mixes with household dust and soil and becomes tracked in. Children may become lead poisoned by:

• Putting their hands or other lead-contaminated objects into their mouths,
• Eating paint chips found in homes with peeling or flaking lead-based paint, or
• Playing in lead-contaminated soil

If you are buying a home or renovating an existing home, built before 1978. You need to download and read about lead paint and the dangers associated with it.

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Asbestos Hazards In The Home

from 1930 - 1979 Some roofing and siding shingles were made of asbestos cement.

Houses built between 1930 and 1950 may have asbestos as insulation.

Asbestos may be present in textured paint and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use was banned in 1977.

Artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos.

Older products such as stove-top pads may have some asbestos compounds.

Walls and floors around woodburning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper, millboard, or cement sheets.

Asbestos is found in some vinyl floor tiles and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and adhesives.

Hot water and steam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material or covered with an asbestos blanket or tape.

Oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.

What to Expect

Gaps or voids in any insulation material, account for significantly poorer thermal performance, so proper installation is important.

Wall insulation is more complicated to install than attic or underfloor insulation. It's best to contact a professional insulation contractor. A professional has the experience to work efficiently, effectively, and recognize unexpected problems.

An experienced crew with good equipment can insulate the walls of an average house from start to finish in less than one day. One crew member drills the wall cavities and probes for blocking. Another follows with the nozzle and hose from the blowing machine and fills the cavity with insulation. An ordinary wall section that is 8 feet in height requires two holes, one about 12 inches below the drop of the wall and the other one up about 36 inches from the bottom of the wall. A wall 10 feet in height may need three holes to achieve adequate compaction of the insulation throughout the cavity (depending on the equipment).

After the installation, the holes are plugged with a wood or plastic plug. The plug is painted if the homeowner supplies the paint. Another option includes a plug with spackle over it. Most insulation contractors stress this is not a finished job and matching colors and textures is not their specialty. Plugs installed without adhesive may work their way out over time because of changing moisture content and temperature. Patching compounds can be textured to blend with existing surfaces.

After the work is completed, a professional installer is required by law to leave a certificate that specifies how much material was installed, how many square feet it covered, type of material used, date of installation, and the installer's name. To prevent settling of material (that could result in voids or gaps), contractors install more insulation in each cavity than will it holds at settled density. For example, cellulose will settle to a density of 2.3 pounds per cubic foot, but your contractor should press more than 3.0 pounds into every cubic foot. The possibility of settling is then greatly reduced.

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Why Insulate?

Uninsulated walls lose heat more quickly to the outdoors. This heat loss can cause

• Drafts across the floor,
• Discomfort from loss of body heat to cold wall surfaces,
• higher heating costs,
• Condensation on the interior surfaces and ideal conditions for mold growth, mildew and decay, and
• condensation within the wall cavity.

Insulating the wall increases its thermal effectiveness. The insulation:

• Reduces drafts caused by air leakage through the wall cavity;
• Keeps the interior surface warmer so occupants can lower the thermostat, but still be comfortable;
• Reduces movement of sound waves and dust so the house is quieter and cleaner; and
• Reduces potential for condensation and related problems.

Investing in wall insulation pays for itself with savings on the heating bill. Average payback is less than 5 to 10 years. Your actual period of payback will depend on factors such as lifestyle, home construction, and the cost of heating fuel.

Materials

There are several materials used to insulate the wall, with varying costs and effectiveness. Materials include cellulose, mineral fibers, and foam insulation. Some contractors also offer vapor barriers and vents as part of the installation.

Cellulose is made from shredded newsprint, treated with fire retardants. Monitoring by industry and government assures the homeowner the material has a standard R-value, is non-toxic, and will not burn or cause corrosion of pipes or wires. Cellulose is particularly effective in wall installations because of its ability to fill and pack even in tiny nooks and crannies within the cavity. Cellulose is also very effective in reducing air infiltration through wall cavities.

Mineral fibers such as fiberglass and rock wool are installed in some walls. Greater pressure is required to pack these materials into the cavity because they tend to catch on nails and hang up around tight places. In addition, larger drill holes are needed to install this type of material. Mineral fibers are most appropriate in homes or walls where moisture is a serious problem, because mineral fibers do eventually dry out. (Cellulose generally does not dry out once wet.)

Foam insulation has been used in the past, but is not as widely used today. Although it offers higher R-values than either cellulose or mineral fibers, problems have been experienced with blown in foam. This includes expansion of the foam during installation causing bowing of walls, and shrinkage of the foam over time, causing gaps in the insulation.

Installation could also include vapor barriers and vents. Almost all the moisture that creeps into the wall cavity arrives through holes and small cracks on the interior wall. Very little vapor passes through holes and small cracks on the interior wall. So a vapor barrier such as rated paints or visqueen is not necessary. Similarly, a vent plug on the exterior is not recommended.

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Earth Quake Inspections

Staying on top of daily, monthly, and annual chores around your home is a big job. Maintenance and repair jobs are constants. Now add in the California Earth Quakes and after shocks. We offer a annual home earth quake safety inspection. We will create a detailed home earth quake safety check list. Our check List will be tailored to your home and help guide you to a safer and more secure home.

Damage from earth quakes is not always visible. Foundation, gas piping chimneys and other building system are put under intense strain during even the smallest movements. Putting off inspections after an earth quake only prolongs the issues at hand. It's far less costly in the long run to have your property inspected now.

To save time and money, plan ahead for the needs of your home.
Go to
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Rats in the attic of a Cypress home cause major damage. David of DHI Home Inspection arrived to inspect a home early on Monday and found that the homes attic was overrun with rodents. The smell was overwhelming said David. I have been an inspector for 11 years and I have never seen anything like it. The rats found their way into the attic by way of a phone line from the power pole at the rear of the home. The rats were able to feed on the many fruit trees in the yard. The damage to the attic was extensive. The insulation, wires as well as the air condition duct work were chewed away by as many as 80 to 100 rats. The ceilings were stained with rat urine. The home had sat vacant for two years due to foreclose . Another sign of the times. The good thing about all this says David is that this one is sold and is going to a new owner who will make the repairs!
Story by Adam Rodes.


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Hi David I felt compelled to send you this letter to thank you for what you did for me this past Monday. I knew when we walked into the garage that a lot of electrical boxes were left open and missing covers. My clients were in short sale and had no funds to make repairs.To hire an electrician was going to kill this deal. But when you went to your truck and found 4 cover plates, well that just proved to me that I made the right recommendation to have you inspect this property. You saved my sale and that means the world to me. The Covers may have only been a few dollars but the act of doing was priceless. The house sold for $395000 All Thanks To You!!
Miss K Halstrand
Realtor and DHI Customer
5/13/09


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We get asked a lot if we can certify a roof...
From and Inspectors point of view" No".

1. No home inspector does a wet test of the roof system.
In a wet test the person conducting the test will use a water hose to impose a wet condition on the roof system. The hose is moved to all points of the roof while another person goes into the attic to look for leaks.

2. Most manufacturer's of roofing products will tell you that a new roof can be void of warranty if it's walked on. Here in California this is especial true with our consistent high temperatures. If you walk on a roof in the blazing sun you are asking for problems. Some roof systems are made of clay or lightweight concrete. It is advised that these roofs only be walked on by qualified individuals. These roofs are more susceptible to physical damage when walked on.

3. Home inspectors for the most part have at some point worked as a contractor or as a person in the construction industry. They have a lot of experience in multiple fields. However the majority of inspectors have never worked in the roofing industry.

4. Should an inspector go on the roof? Yes if the conditions are right! An inspector should never go on the roof it it will cause damage to the roof system, or cause a safety hazard to the person conduction the inspection.

5. When a roofing system has sufficient granular loss it is no longer a good roofing system.
it may not leak but it is no longer protected from the sun. Dried out, curled, broken or missing roofing components are also reasons to note that the roof is past it's life span.

In general, the more tank insulation the better, since it reduces standby heat loss. Tanks are available with insulation ratings ranging from R-6 to R-24. It may be possible to add an extra insulating blanket or jacket on the outside of a poorly insulated tank to reduce heat loss. The most common type of water heater blanket is fiberglass insulation with a vinyl film on the outside. The insulation is wrapped around the tank and the ends are taped together. It is important that the blanket be the right size for the tank and not block air flow or cover safety and drainage valves, the controls, or block airflow through the exhaust vent, if any. In very humid locations, adding insulation to an already well-insulated tank may cause condensation problems, potentially causing rust, mold, or operational problems. Look here is the truth on this. If the manufacture recommends insulation or gives guidelines for installation, then it probably OK to add an approved insulating cover.

As an Inspector I don't like the insulation blanket on hot water tanks. I always cringe when I see one. We will advise that it must be checked in accordance with the manufacture guidelines.

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In household and commercial usage, most water heaters in North America are of the tank type. Also called storage water heaters, these consist of a cylindrical tank in which water is kept continuously hot and ready for use. Typical sizes for household use range from 75 to 400 liters (20 to 100 U.S. gallons). These may use gas, electric, propane, solar and heating oil.energy Natural gas heaters are most popular in the US and most European countries, since the gas is often conveniently piped throughout cities and towns and currently is the cheapest to use. Compared to tank-less heaters, storage water heaters have the advantage of using energy (gas or electricity) at a relatively slow rate, storing the heat for later use. Larger tanks tend to provide hot water with less temperature fluctuation at moderate flow rates.

Storage water heaters in the United States are typically vertical, cylindrical tanks, usually standing on the floor or on a platform raised a short distance above the floor. Storage water heater tanks in Spain are typically horizontal. In India, they are mainly vertical. In apartments they can be mounted in the ceiling space over laundry-utility rooms.

With most water heater inspections you will find missing earthquake strapping. Vet flue in contact with combustible surfaces. Gas leaks around gas valves and fittings. Back drafting of CO gases. Rusted or leaking supply fittings. Missing TPI valve and down piping, just to name a few.

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Stand-alone appliances for instantaneously heating water for Domestic Hot Water are known in North America as tankless heaters, elsewhere as multi-point heaters, or old brand names such as, geysers or Ascots. A common arrangement where hot-water supply and space heating is employed is for the boiler to combine hot-water and space heating production into one small cased unit. The combination boiler or combi for short. A combi heats a hydronic heating system and when Domestic Hot Water is called for all the power of the boiler is diverted to only supplying Domestic Hot Water.

Although instantaneous heaters can give a continuous supply of Domestic Hot Water the rate at which they can produce it is limited by the thermodynamics of heating water from the available fuel supplies.

Many tankless hot water systems avaliable today require special installation techniques. Ventting, Gas and Electric systems are a lot differend than standard storage tank units. When Inspectin this type of unit it is important to have a copy of the installation guide on hand. If you don't have one you can usally find them online.

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A high-torque, insulated electric motor, usually rated at 200–750 watts (¼ to 1horsepower) for a domestic unit, spins a circular turntable mounted horizontally above it. Induction motors rotate at 1,400–1,800 rpm and have low starting torque;commutator motors rotate at higher speeds (about 2,800 rpm), have high starting torque, and are usually lighter. However commutator motors are noisier than induction motors, partially due to the higher speeds and partially because the commutator brushes rub on the slotted armature. The higher starting torque of those appliances with a permanent magnet motor secures in most cases that there will be no blockage.

The added weight and size of induction motors might be of concern. Many models have some degree of sound insulation.

The turntable is surrounded by a shredder ring, which has sharp slots. The food waste sits on the turntable and through centrifugal force is forced to its perimeter and through the shredder ring. The turntable has a number of swiveling lugs—similar to little hammers attached to its topside—which assist in forcing the waste through the shredder. Except for special models, most of the food waste disposers do not have any sharp blades or scissors.

Waste is fed into a chamber above the turntable and drops on the turntable. The chamber may have a rubber partial closure through which waste can be pushed without letting cutlery and other objects fall in, but essentially the chamber is open at the top, and there is access to the turntable. This is useful in the case of a jam: The turntable can be forced round by pushing with a wooden spoon handle or similar object until the jam clears. Waste that cannot be ground successfully can be removed manually.

Most units are of the continuous-feed type, allowing waste to be added as the unit runs. Batch-feed models are also available with a lid that must be locked before operation, making it impossible to run the machine when a user is trying to clear a jam by hand and preventing cutlery, etc. from falling in.

Some commercial and high-end domestic disposals also have an under-cutter blade that revolves below the turntable and chops the ground waste, including fibrous material which could cause a drain clog, finer. These disposals can handle fibrous waste such as artichoke leaves and corn husks that cannot be successfully ground in a standard disposal.

Waste disposal units may jam but can usually be cleared either by forcing the turntable round from above or by turning the motor using a hex-key wrench inserted into the motor shaft from below. Very hard objects accidentally or deliberately introduced, such as metal cutlery, can damage the waste disposal unit and become damaged themselves. More problematic are drain blockages caused by shredded waste that is fibrous (artichoke leaves) or starchy (potato peelings).

Some higher-end units have automatic reversing. By using a slightly more-complicated centrifugal stating switch , the split-phase motor rotates in the opposite direction from the previous run each time it is started. This can clear minor jams but is claimed to be unnecessary by some manufacturers: Since the late 1970s most disposal units have swivel impellers which make reversing unnecessary.

Another kind of garbage disposal unit is powered by water pressure rather than electricity and does not pose an electrical hazard. Instead of the turntable and grind ring described above, an alternative machine has a water-powered unit with an oscillating piston with blades attached to chop the waste into fine pieces. Because of this cutting action, they can handle fibrous waste. Water-powered units take longer than electric ones for a given amount of waste and need fairly high water pressure to function properly.

Cold water should always be kept running when the disposal is switched on to prevent damage to the blades and wash away the chopped waste without allowing it to build up and clog the drains. Hot water tends to melt easily-flushed solid shredded pieces of fat, which can then solidify and block the drain. Under no circumstances should oil or grease be disposed in a sink drain – with or without a disposer in use.

Provision must be made to supply and switch power to the waste disposal unit. A conventional electrical switch can be used, which requires wiring to be installed and poses a potential electrical shock hazard if used with wet hands. An air switch which delivers a puff of air to operate an electric switch remote from the operator is safer. Alternatively, a wireless remote control switch can be used.

If a garbage disposal is discovered to have a "frozen lug", or a hammer that does not move freely, it is recommended that the user feed smaller bones such as those from chicken, through the unit. As seen on an episode of the TV show How It's Made, In Sink Erator company tests its units by feeding frozen steer bones through a sample batch of disposal units, so one does not need fear damage to a unit in good condition with chicken bones. Many repair technicians recommend a weekly feeding of a batch of ice cubes through a running disposer to maintain good cleanliness. This will assist in keeping the lugs or hammers rotating freely and remove any build-up of deposits and minerals. Never feed glass into a garbage disposal.

A common issue I find with the insallation of a GD is the wires enter from the bottom of the unit without the proper wire connector. At times I have even find the unit ungrounded!

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The garage door is the largest moving object in a home. An improperly adjusted garage door opener can exert strong and deadly forces and might not reverse the garage door in an emergency. The garage door counterbalance springs should be properly adjusted in order for the safety reverse system to function properly. Thus, proper installation and maintenance are extremely important in order for the garage door and garage door opener to operate smoothly and safely.

The header bracket, which attaches the front end of the opener track to the header wall, must be securely attached to the structural members of the garage wall. If not, the opener might not reverse the garage door in an emergency. The rail can also pull away from the wall.

All garage door openers manufactured since 1982 are required to provide a red handle attached to a red rope that attaches to the trolley that allows for the garage door to be disconnected from the garage door opener in the event of entrapment. The handle should be mounted no higher than six feet from the ground. Homeowners should be familiar with this mechanism. Garage door openers manufactured since 1982 are also required to reverse the garage door if it strikes a solid object.

The wall console/push button should be mounted at least five feet from the floor and the remote controls should be kept out of the hands of children. Children should never be allowed to play with or use the garage door opener remotes or wall push-buttons. Homeowners should also keep a moving door in sight until it fully opens or closes.

By federal law, garage door openers manufactured since 1993 are required to have safety sensors on both sides of the garage door mounted no higher than six inches above the ground that emit an invisible laser beam across the door. The garage door opener is required to reverse the door to the open position if the beam is broken.

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Contrary to popular belief, the electric opener does not provide the actual lifting power to open and close a heavy garage door. Instead, the actual lifting power comes from the counterbalance springs that are under tension to lift the garage door via steel counterbalance cables.

The electric opener itself consists of a power unit that contains the electric motor. The power unit attaches to a track. A trolley connected to an arm that attaches to the top of the garage door slides back and forth on the track, thus opening and closing the garage door. The trolley is guided along the track by a chain, belt, or screw that turns when the motor is operated. A red handle and rope are attached to the trolley to allow the garage door to be disconnected from the opener for manual operation or in case of emergency. Limit switches on the power unit control the distance the garage door opens and closes once the motor receives a signal from the remote control or wall push button to operate the door. Many safety devices are available and required to insure safe operation from day to day. It is imperative that you test the safety of the reverse switch and optic eyes during a home inspection.

The entire assembly hangs above the garage door. This assembly should also be inspected for installation issues. The power unit hangs from the ceiling and is located towards the rear of the garage. The end of the track on the opposite end of the power unit attaches to a header bracket that is attached to the header wall above the garage door. The power head is usually supported by punched angle iron.

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Although molds grow on dead organic matter everywhere in nature, their presence is only visible to the unaided eye when mold colonies grow. A mold colony does not comprise discrete organisms, but an interconnected network of hyphae called amycelium. Nutrients and in some cases organelles may be transported throughout the mycelium. In artificial environments like buildings, humidity and temperature are often stable enough to foster the growth of mold colonies, commonly seen as a downy or furry coating growing on food or other surfaces.

Some molds can begin growing at temperatures as low as 2°C. When conditions do not enable growth, molds may remain alive in a dormant state depending on the species, within a large range of temperatures before they die. The many different mold species vary enormously in their tolerance to temperature and humidity extremes. Certain molds can survive harsh conditions such as the snow-covered soils of Antarctica, refrigeration, highly acidic solvents, and even petroleum products such as jet fuel. Some molds use the humidity in the air as their only water source; other molds need more moisture.

You can not get rid of the mold in your house by taking out the drywall patching it up and painting it. You have got to find the source of the moisture.

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